A Historic Induction in Pittsburgh
By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory
The Duquesne Club is a legendary name in Pittsburgh History. Begun in 1873, the Club's early days were peopled by captains of industry. Founders and early members included George Westinghouse (Westinghouse Electric), B. F. Jones (Jones & Laughlin Steel), Andrew Carnegie (Carnegie Steel, later U.S. Steel) and various members of the Mellon clan. Today there are still many captains of industry among its membership, but on February 2, 1996 the Pittsburgh Bailliage was more interested in another type of captain - Executive Chef Keith Coughenour, Captain of the medal winning United States Culinary Team.
Pittsburgh Bailli Peter Hanowich and Maitre de Table Restaurateur Mel Rex, Duquesne Club Manager (and recent International Club Manager of the Year), determined that only this legendary club, with a museum quality art collection and incredibly rich decor, would do for the Pittsburgh Bailliage's first double induction of Chaine and L'Ordre Mondial members.
A historic induction at a historic club - but who should conduct such an induction? How about none other than Burton Hobson who, as you are reading this, has been elected (perhaps anointed or crowned) Bailli Delegue des Etats-Unis or, as Bailli Hanowich put it more succinctly - "Le Grand Fromage". Not that Burt is particularly historic, it's just that he looks so good in L'Ordre Mondial robes (see the accompanying picture if you don't believe it).
As the Chaine members filtered into the club on this cold February night, they were met by the incredibly warm sight of a Mediterranean village square. The extremely inventive and talented Duquesne Club staff had turned the Club's Garden Room into a town square market complete with fresh produce, streamers, banners and a working fountain! Why? - Because Chef Coughenour was taking us on a journey through the Mediterranean with stops all the way from Spain, to Morocco, to Southern Albania and Turkey.
Our trip to 13 Mediterranean regions began with hors d'oeuvres from seven regions including pork tenderloin with Spanish marinade, apricot relish and lemon creme fraiche from Catalonia, tortillitas de camarones (fried shrimp fritters) from Andalusia, stewed baby octopus with tomatoes and preserved lemon from Sardinia and fried green olives stuffed with rabbit from Sicily. The recipe and the olives were Sicilian, but we suspect the rabbits were local since none of them spoke Italian, according to Italian wine importer, Maitre Rotisseur Traiteur Stan Lalic.
After hors d'oeuvres, the group moved to the Founder's Room for the induction. Amidst oil paintings of men comprising a Who's Who of American industry, a record number of 26 individuals were inducted into the Chaine and five into L'Ordre Mondial. In addition, Philip Bucci was elevated to Vice Conseiller, L'Ordre Mondial. This was a homecoming for Phil since he worked at the Duquesne Club for over 40 years, most recently as Maitre D'. Over the years he handled the needs of everyone from new members to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. Old habits die hard and Chevalier Hal Mendlowitz spent the evening keeping Phil from getting up to help whenever a new course was served.
Speaking of courses, where would a hot young chef begin our journey on a cold night but in that "chaud nouvelle" area of France - Provence. In a salute to France's most famous son, Chef Coughenour presented Napoleon of duck liver mousse with tart cherry tartar and tarragon crema. The course was interestingly joined by a 1992 Pouilly Fume from Jean Claud. After a stop in the Apulia region for consomme of wild fennel and crab, bruschetta, and almond rubbed sea bass, we moved to Greece for vine smoked quail rubbed with pomegranates and stuffed with walnuts and quince accompanied by Grivot's Vosne Romanee.
The centerpiece dish was a trio of Elysian lamb featuring three countries: Spain - roasted loin with figs and chorizo; Morocco - almond and honey tangine in kadaifi; Turkey - lamb dumplings over cucumbers with yogurt. Spain also contributed a spectacular 1983 Torres Black Label Gran Coronas. After a French salad composed of baby greens, St. Andre cheese and mint souffle with hearts of palm and crisp artichokes, we closed with a Syrian dessert of honey walnut cake with rose petal preserves, kumquat compote and dondurma mish mish in an orange bay leaf sauce.
As we sipped Turkish coffee, Duquesne Club Assistant Manager, Maitre de Table Scott Neill, introduced Chef Keith and his staff to a standing ovation. Another retired Duquesne Club alumni, Chef Rotisseur Nicholas Colletti, simply summed up everyone's feelings about Chef Rotisseur Keith Coughenour by stating "This kid's really good", (Nick would call Methuselah a kid). After medal winning performances in the International Culinary Olympics, Chef Rotisseur Coughenour was pleased to add a few more feathers to his toque this evening - induction into the Chaine - admiration from the numerous Chef Grillardins and Chef Rotisseurs in attendance - an accolade from a predecessor and a standing "O" from the Pittsburgh Bailliage.
Kings and kings of industry, princes and merchant princes have all dined at the Duquesne Club, but surely none have ever sampled better fare than the members of the Pittsburgh Bailliage on this historic evening.
A medal winning chef, an award winning manager, beautiful decor and artwork, spectacular food and wine, incredible service and a historic Chaine dinner - the legend of Pittsburgh's Duquesne Club continues!
