Opera Gastronomique in Pittsburgh

By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory

"Come on Pete -- we can't have Rossini to dinner. The man's been dead for well over 100 years." "We're not having Rossini to dinner -- we're having a Rossini dinner," replied Pittsburgh Bailli Pete Hanowich.

"Oh, that explains everything -- what the heck is a Rossini dinner." Pete explained Gioacchino Rossini, well know for composing such operas as the Barber of Seville and William Tell, was less known, but no less accomplished, as a gastronome. Rossini's food pyramid consisted of rich reduction sauces, foie gras and truffles; and, he occasionally combined all three in one dish.

"This isn't going to be an easy dinner, Pete -- you're going to need extraordinary culinary ability, not to mention a great venue to act as a stage for this production" (I was already speaking in operatic terms). "I know -- what would you think if I told you we were combining the staff of the Baum Vivant and Hyeholde to do the dinner at the Hyeholde." With this crescendo of information, I was convinced. Those two restaurants have enough awards between them to fill anyone's trophy case. Hyeholde, owned by Barbara and Quentin McKenna, is one of the most beautiful and romantic restaurants in the region. Built to resemble a 16th Century Norman Chateau, the restaurant is located on several flower filled, park-like acres west of the City. When they took over operation of the restaurant Barbara was no stranger to the property. Her parents had owned it years before and Barbara had always dreamed of buying it back.

With a brand new kitchen, as well as one of Pittsburgh's hot young chefs - Drew Lise (recent winner of Pittsburgh Magazine's Best New Chef Award) Hyeholde was an ideal partner for Matre de Table Tony Pais' Baum Vivant crew. Baum Vivant has hosted several Chane dinners, as well as serving as a regular meeting place for Pittsburgh's Mondial tastings. The efforts of Tony, his wife Becky (Pittsburgh Magazine's Restaurateurs of the Year) and Executive Chef Carl Lashley, have put Baum Vivant on everyone's short list of Pittsburgh's best restaurants. Just as Rossini triple teamed his ingredients, this dinner was also triple chefed when Matre Rotisseur Traiteur Gene Lichter of Benkovitz Seafoods volunteered as a guest chef.

Bailli Hanowich set April 13 as the "Day of Decadence" and began the pleasant task of helping plan the menu (including eight pounds of truffles and 40 pounds of foie gras) accompanied by the unpleasant task of turning down 60 of the 140 people who requested seating. "I've never had to turn down so many people," complained Pete. The other officers reminded Pete, "that's why you get the big money".

As they arrived in the courtyard of the Hyeholde and approached the turreted entranceway, Bill and Carolyn Byham agreed that this was a perfect stage for this production -- and they know stages, Pittsburgh's Byham Theater is named for this culture loving couple. Guests were ushered down an art filled corridor to the Hyeholde's party room where the last rays of an early spring sunset shown through large windows onto a small stage with a microphone at center. No, our rule against speeches wasn't in danger. The microphone was for Mezzo Soprano Maria Zifchak who, accompanied by pianist Ray Blackwell, sang a number of arias from the Barber of Seville. Maria and Ray appeared courtesy of Gene Lichter who felt we couldn't have a Rossini dinner without some operatic numbers. However, this evening wasn't about Rossini's musical talent, but his gastronomic avocation.

The overture included an "aperitif de printemps" of sparkling wine with Cointreau, accompanied by some of the most extraordinary hors d'oeuvres in anyone's memory. An incredible Rossini original was a long tube of macaroni stuffed with foie gras! This unique creation was joined by a crayfish with cajun mayonnaise served on a spoon, perfect little quail eggs on brioche with crme fraiche and caviar, olympia oysters, smoked trout on a corn blini, a barbecued rabbit parcel and duck confit on a potato wafer.

Act I, Scene I was a demitasse of consomm Rossini, which is enshrined in one of Escoffier's cookbooks, with an accompanying profiterolle stuffed with foie gras and truffle mousse. Scene II was an absolute show stopper! "Eggs on an egg in an egg," a brown country egg was opened at the top and the contents were lightly scrambled with cultured creme and truffles, stuffed back into the shell and topped with caviar. All of this was perched on a silver egg stand and served with a small demitasse spoon. This fantastic serving was accompanied by a Burgundy cremant from Michel Freres.

Scene III was an ultra rich dish of lobster and foie gras with truffle sauce accompanied by a potato timbale, nicely joined by a Croze's Hermitage Blanc from Alaine Graillot. It was a good thing Drs. Tom Allen, Herb Sperling and Bob Stern were on hand just in case anyone should overdose on the ecstasy.

Scene IV was one of the richest salads ever put on a dish. It included organic greens, pea shoots and foie gras mousse dressed with a truffle vinaigrette. A spicy, floral 1988 Gewurtztraminer from Gustave Lorentz complimented this "salad".

Act II was sole with foie gras and truffle sauce accompanied by a 1992 Meursault from Thierry and Pascale Matrot. After an intermezzo of granny smith apple sorbet, Act III opened with Rossini's signature dish - Tournedos Rossini. For more on how this dish came to be named, see the accompanying box.

This grand production reached its grand finale with desserts and sweets including a chocolate covered poached pear in armagnac syrup stuffed with foie gras accompanied by truffle ice cream with armagnac sauce. The dessert was beautifully presented on a plate with "Viva la Chane" inscribed in chocolate across the top. Dessert was perfectly complemented by a sweet 1993 Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from Domaine de Coyeux and, in honor of Tony Pais' native Portugal, a 1985 Porto Barros Colheita. Strawberries, hand decorated as a tuxedo with black tie in light and dark chocolate, were served with coffee and after dinner drinks.

For the curtain call, the large service cast, superbly directed by Debbie Fajerski was introduced followed by the kitchen crew with Chefs Lashley, Lise and Lichter and finally Barbara McKenna, Becky and Tony Pais, all to a standing ovation.

Director of the Pittsburgh Opera, Tito Capobianco and food writer, Jane Citron, agreed that this was one opera that wasn't going to experience a repeat engagement. Our waistlines couldn't possibly afford it!

Everyone who has ever listened to the William Tell Overture (The Lone Ranger theme for those of you who are culturally challenged), is happy for Rossini's operatic composing career. Tonight the Pittsburgh Chane was equally happy for his Gastronomic career!