A Peking Duck in Pittsburgh

By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory

The capital of China may now be called Beijing - but the famous duck dish is still known as Peking duck. This was one of many things we were to learn at the Pittsburgh Chaîne's first ever gourmet Chinese dinner. It was a beautiful early spring evening on April 25, 1999 when we arrived at the suburban Pittsburgh village of Sewickley - an area known for large estates, rail fences and horseback riding. The central town itself has quaint buildings occupied by interesting shops and restaurants including the China Palace, one of three locations owned by Mike Chen, our genial host for the evening.

We were greeted by Mike, his wife Grace and Chevalier Dr. Freddie and Hilda Fu, all stunningly outfitted in traditional Chinese silk robes. Freddie and Hilda worked with Mike to select the dishes and plan the dinner. Dr. Fu, an internationally known orthopedic surgeon from the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, has traveled extensively. He proudly proclaimed "there are only a few places in the world you could get a meal like this - Hong Kong, New York, San Francisco, Toronto, maybe Vancouver - no, not Vancouver." Well, so much for Vancouver.

The reception included beautiful and taste tempting items from around the Pacific Rim. Intricate root carvings, including lanterns and a smoke breathing dragon decorated the table laden with sushi, shrimp, vegetables and other goodies all beneath a traditional silk dragon overhead. Mumm's Napa Valley Blanc de Noir accompanied this spectacular opening.

As we settled into our seats, Mike and Freddie explained a little of the dinner then closed with the toast "gun bei" (pronounced "gun bay" for those of us who need to brush up on our Chinese language skills).

Before we began the first of our twelve dishes and nine wines Bailli Barbara Hanowich told us of the incredible effort that had gone into this dinner. This included travel to New York for ingredients and taking two days to prepare some dishes. This information, along with having partaken of the reception, told us that dinner wasn't going to be chop suey!

We began with shark fin soup (one of the ingredients Mike had purchased in New York). The soup had a light creamy consistency although no cream was used and, with a touch of vinegar added, made a delightful beginning. The light flavored Principessa Gavia was a perfect accompaniment since it didn't overwhelm the flavorful soup.

The second appetizer was also one of the most shocking to our western senses - jellyfish. That's right, the aquatic creature we were warned to avoid for fear of its stinging tentacles. Small portions were taken at first, but as everyone realized, this jellyfish didn't sting and it had an interesting taste and almost vegetable-like crunchy texture, many came back for seconds. Beef shank and salt and garlic shrimp were the next two appetizers. These dishes presented an interesting contrast - red meat versus shellfish, an unspiced presentation versus a salt and garlic spiced dish. The verdict - both were great. The 4 season shu-mai also delivered a variety of tastes. These little dumplings with four types of filling were a real taste treat.

The main courses presented a sensory overload since the presentations were as spectacular as the smell, taste and texture. Just watching the server delicately carve the Peking duck was an absolute delight. The serving dish was decorated with a seagull, which had been carved from turnips. The hearty Pinot Noir was a good accompaniment to this flavorful dish. The ginger scallion lobster that followed was one of the most popular dishes of the evening. Since all dishes were served family style on a turntable, Chevalier Dick Spine, who was at the far side of his table, had to remind everyone to "save some for me!". Chateau Ste. Michelle's Canoe Ridge Chardonnay nicely complimented this very flavorful dish.

Chevalier and wine importer Stan Lalic's Palagetto Vernacchia di San Gimignano accompanied the next course of a wonderfully thick textured abalone. The crowd was beginning to slow a bit - a reception and eight courses will do that, but Chef/Owner Mike Chen and his able assistants Chef Chao Wah Chen and Chef Hsai Pao Chang weren't finished yet. The final two courses of shitake mushrooms with scallops and dragon boat whole fish, a grey sole fish, were joined by Raymond's Merlot and Clos du Bois' Chardonnay.

The crowd had to consider where to find a spot for the dessert courses of mango pudding and almond tofu. Fortunately both were light enough to squeeze in, along with the interesting offering from Famiglia de Robert Mondavi of a refreshing sweet muscat.

A traditional Chinese tea which Dr. Fu had purchased in Hong Kong was served at the meal's end. Bailli Hanowich informed us that the tea had a price per ounce that would make even the Bordelaise blush. Like the wine and food that preceded it, the tea was perfect.

As the evening wore on and the wine and food flowed, the conversation and noise level had increased significantly. It reached a crescendo with Mike Chen's introduction of Chef Chai Wah Chen, Chef Hsia Pao Chang, the kitchen and wait staff. After introductions, Mike and Grace presented us with traditional Chinese good luck gifts containing "lucky money". It was the first time any of us had gone to a restaurant where they gave us a tip!

As we departed the China Palace, there was a bowl of fortune cookies by the door. We didn't need a fortune cookie to realize how truly fortunate we were to have partaken in this feast that most Americans would never have the opportunity to experience.