A Franc-ly Portuguese Dinner in Pittsburgh

By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory

Win, Place and Show - That's the former name of the Baum Boulevard location now known as Baum Vivant. Owned by Maitre de Table Restaurateur Tony Pais and his wife, Becky, the dark wood interior and white tile floor combine to give the restaurant a turn-of-century bistro look that would have been equally at home in New York or Paris. Baum Vivant's regular fare is international, with a decided Portuguese flair. And why not? Tony was born in Portugal and he and Becky spend time there every year catching up on the current crop of wines and the latest culinary trends (not to mention gossip from the old 'hood).

The Chaine dinner on May 7, 1995, designed by Tony, Becky, Executive Chef Carl Lashley and Pittsburgh Bailli Peter Hanowich was predominantly French. The hot and cold hors d'oeuvres were served with a Pennier Brut Champagne. The next course of Ravioli of Lobster and Foie Gras with Truffle Sauce accompanied by a 1990 Matrot Meursault showed the Chaine members and their guests why USAIR's in-flight magazine named Baum Vivant the restaurant to go to when spending 24 hours in Pittsburgh. The fish course was called Fletan au Baum Vivant. This west coast halibut was braised and served with roasted tomatoes, onions and peppers. It was wonderfully joined by a 1990 Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet. A very floral, very typical Gewurztraminer from Theo Faller provided a change up for the salad course of quail breast and quail eggs on greens, with a walnut vinegar and oil dressing.

The most unusual course of the evening was a bird whose eggs are considerably larger than a quail's - ostrich. Despite Dame de la Chaine Denise Kennedy's claim that the ostrich flew to Pittsburgh from Australia, the bird was actually from the Royal Ostrich Farm about 40 miles east of Pittsburgh. The Pinot Noir grapes in the Morey Saint Dennis Les Sorbets provided a perfect compliment to the sweet dark meat of the ostrich which was sauteed with a morel mushroom sauce. The meat course of lamb noisettes on eggplant and polenta that followed the ostrich was not quite as exotic, but every bit as delicious. A Chateau Cantenac Brown Margaux was powerful and wonderfully flavor enhancing for the lamb. An assortment of desserts (Chevalier Tom Allen's favorite course) was accompanied by a 1985 Chateau Coutet Barsac. Tony also managed to bring the flavor of his native Portugal to the dinner with a Ramos Pinto Tawny Port.

After coffee and Portuguese wedding cookies, the Pittsburgh Chaine knew why Tony and Becky were recently selected as restaurateurs of the year by Pittsburgh Magazine. As we contemplated the presentation, the ambience and the dinner, we harkened back to the original name of the establishment - What a show! What a place! What a win!