Pittsburgh Feasts in the Forest

By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory

Nemacolin Woodlands Resport and Spa is connected to three very unique men. The resort, covering 1,200 forested acres is named after Chief Nemacolin of the Delaware tribe who allied himself with frontiersmen to clear a trail from near what is now Washington, D.C. to Western Pennsylvania in 1749. The land was originally a hunting preserve founded by Willard Rockwell, scion of the Rockwell clan that founded Rockwell Manufacturing and North American Rockwell. Joseph Hardy, a classic American entrepreneur, who founded the national chain of lumber stores - 84 Lumber - bought the land in 1987 and with a major investment has turned it into a beautiful resort and spa.

This spectacularly luxurious retreat hosted one of the most luxurious dinners the Pittsburgh Bailliage has ever experienced. The July 12th event was entitled - "Celebration of Art and Cuisine" - and what a celebration it was! The recently opened Chateau Lafayette's restaurant, Lautrec, is indeed a work of art. The atmosphere of both the hotel and restaurant is elegant and airy with homage paid to owner Joseph Hardy's eclectic art collection.

Vice Chancelier-Argentier R. Michael King played the lead role in arranging this magnificent dinner at Nemacolin where he is Vice-President of Operations. Michael, formerly of the Ritz Carlton at Laguna Niguel, is an experienced hand at Chaîne affairs and that experience was very evident throughout the evening.

Members and guests mingled during a lengthy cocktail hour, which was still not long enough to savor the delightful hors d'oeuvres. Included were salmon napoleons, crabcakes with red pepper coulis, marinated lamb noisettes, mini brioche with whipped Roquefort, Caspian sea caviar (chilled in three foot tall ice sculpture butlers) and belon oysters, potato puffs with truffle cream, snail fritters with garlic cream, Dover sole with rémoulade sauce and finally lobster bisque with caviar cream. These little delights were accompanied by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut.

Guests moved into the large dining room which is designed to allow one to look directly into the kitchen. Chef Grillardin, Executive Chef Todd Rogers and Chef Grillardin, Chef de Cuisine Gerard Vullien welcomed the group and began to describe the courses to follow. We were completely wowed by the first course. This chilled cherry consommé was jelled and served in an amber glass votive, which was suspended in an iron holder. It was garnished with a pitted Queen Anne cherry. Along side was a napoleon of lobster and sweetbreads with morels in puff pastry. To add to the sheer perfection of this course was a 128 year old Madeira - Blandy's Verdelho Solera 1870, which was generously poured into a large glass. We all told Vice Conseiller l'Ordre Mondial, Philip Bucci that this was the first wine the Chaîne has ever experienced that was older than him.

Our second course was fresh New York foie gras with warm Georgia peaches on brioche. The simplicity of the description does not do this course justice. This huge serving of foie gras was so delectable the people around me were touting their foresight of having saved a sip of Madeira to go with it. The 1995 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Herrenweg Turckheim Reisling was a daring, but delightful, pairing with the foie gras.

The white-glove service continued on to the fish course, which consisted of glazed sea scallops and crab in champagne sabayon. The 1996 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne Montrachet was perfect with this course. Following the fish, we were invited to move to the main dining room to continue our repast. Seating was in intimate tables of four or six as opposed to the long tables in the first part of the meal.

L'intermission was a thrillingly presented pomegranate ice. The plate was covered with a thin coating of white chocolate on which there was a small iron stickman, kneeling and offering up a glass bowl between his hands. In the iced dish was a fresh papaya half, garnished into a flower shape. Inside the flower was the pomegranate ice. It was a lightly scented ice and a very refreshing palate cleanser.

The veal fillet roasted in vegetables and truffle mousseline was prepared in a most interesting way. The French term "brunoise" refers to the minute dice of the vegetables which are a flavorful garnish for the meat. In this case the brunoise was spread onto a lacy layer of veal fat then wrapped around the veal filet. In the roasting process, the fat melted and adhered closely to the meat resulting in an almost cheese-like consistency . The entire course was a celebration of flavors prepared in a traditional French style. This classic course was accompanied by a classic Rhone Valley 1994 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf du Pape, Cuvee Reserve.

Even the salad was spectacular. A plate of micro greens and watercress were lightly dressed and nestled among them was a small round of Brie. The Brie was halved, filled with beluga caviar and warmed to a slightly melted stage. An incredible presentation and taste treat!

Not to be outdone, the pastry chef created the artistic "piece de resistance" of the entire meal. The chocolate confluence was a miniature chocolate confection of the city of Pittsburgh. The three rivers were crème anglaise, the cityscape was two paperthin chocolate facades and the bridges were chocolate pavés with three different fillings. Chevalier Richard Kann commented it was almost too beautiful to eat. "Yeah - almost", replied Chef Grillardin Mike Uricchio as he gobbled up the U.S. Steel Building. The wine, a 1995 Le Petite Église from Pomerol, was a perfect complement.

Satiated and happy, we gave a standing ovation to Michael King, Jim Oliver, the chefs and the entire cooking and dining room staff. Some of us stayed for French pressed coffee and mignardises, but many slipped into the cigar bar to explore the delicious selection of fine cigars, port and cognac. Upon departure our incredibly generous hosts provided each guest a Lautrec sack filled with assorted goodies such as a Toulouse Lautrec print scarf, a Lautrec house bottle of wine, beautiful Lautrec notecards and two snifters. These lovely reminders of a truly spectacular food event will undoubtedly cause instant salivation every time we look at them.