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An Island Fling
By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory
The Pittsburgh Chaine journeyed South of the Border for its casual summer
dinner on August 19, 1996. South of Pittsburgh's border, that is -- to
the upscale southern suburb of Mt. Lebanon. The evening's theme was "An
Island Fling" that combined Latin and Caribbean cuisine. What better place
to have this than the London Grille. What? A traditional English pub and
grill room for an island theme party? Why not? England is a great sailing
nation and many Caribbean islands still have ties to the British Commonwealth.
How could a restaurant that serves traditional English grill fare come
up with a varied Latin/Caribbean menu? Easy -- if you happen to have two
individuals like Executive Chef, David McKinney and Owner, Lou Bucci.
Both of these gentlemen have a great deal of experience and varied backgrounds.
Lou has managed restaurants with different themes in many diverse locations
(he even helped open a number of Playboy clubs around the country). Chef
McKinney is one of Pittsburgh's best known and most popular chefs. His
inventive hand is seen in the always unique and tasteful specials at the
London Grille.
Our first site as we approached the outdoor patio of the London Grille,
in the corner of Mt. Lebanon's Galleria Shopping Center, was an authentically
outfitted Bahamian "Policeman" directing traffic in the traditional short
white coat and white pith helmet. Several brightly garbed hosts and hostesses
were directing guests toward the back patio where a keyboard player was
entertaining with island tunes. A wonderful summer assortment of conch
fritters, coconut shrimp, gigantic grilled prawns, jerked chicken and
chilled red snapper was accompanied by champagne and -- yes -- authentic
"umbrella drinks". Outfits were an eclectic mix ranging from laid back
Hawaiian shirts, pareas and halter tops to Bill Bryan's formal blue yacht
blazer with accompanying yachting cap.
As dinner was about to be served, a mariachi band stepped on to the back
patio to lead the group around to the main doors. The colorfully garbed,
and by now noisy, Pittsburgh Chaine paraded through the main shopping
area to the front doors of the London Grille. The smiles and amazed looks
we attracted along the way got the evening off to a very fun start.
The first course for dinner continued the colorful and interesting start
to the evening. Chef David produced yellow fin tuna and scallops ceviche.
This was accompanied by a 1995 Fonseca Albis that complemented the dish
without overwhelming it. Our next course was baby octopus combined with
jolly mon risotto and a 1990 Fonseca Pasmados. Chevalier Frank Diettinger
immediately counted all eight suction cupped legs to confirm that indeed
these were baby octopus.
An interlude of mariachi band serenading preceded a grilled baby quail
stuffed with chorizo which added just the right amount of spice and moistness.
For the first time in recent memory, we deviated from a wine course and
had a Jamaican Red Stripe beer. It was just the right touch with the spicy
chorizo. A beautifully presented Caribbean spiny lobster with Bienville
crabmeat accompanied by a 1994 Martin Codax Albarino followed the quail.
Chevalier Steve Montelese commented that this dish was almost too pretty
to eat. He repeated "almost" as he swallowed his first bite of the lobster.
Roasted baby goat with island vegetables accompanied by a 1990 Antonio
Barcelo Vina Mayor Reserva closed out the main courses for the evening.
A tray of fresh fruit cleansed our palates just in time for an island
fantasy of grilled pineapple, coconut, mango and passion fruit sorbet
with flaming bananas.
We closed the evening on the London Grille's outdoor patio with cognac,
cordials and cigars. Those umbrella drinks from earlier in the evening
finally caught up with a few members of the group resulting in some very
interesting interpretations of island dances. Ah -- but that's another
story for another day.
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