Pittsburgh Baillage Goes to the Movies

By Vice Chargé de Presse Ken McCrory

St. Clair Country Club is one of the premier golf courses in Western Pennsylvania and has also held a reputation for splendid food and service for eighty years. The beautifully appointed club in Pittsburgh's south suburbs hosted its very first Chaine Gala October 27th 1997. Club Manager Barry Garrett, CCM experienced the Chaine when he was with the Houston Country Club in Texas and the Executive Chef, Vincent P. Sanzotti prepared several Chaine repasts as executive chef at major hotels. So, while St. Clair Country Club was a first time host, there was plenty of Chaine experience on hand.

On arrival, guests were treated to the sight of tables sagging with a sumptuous array of hors d'oeuvres and the always excellent Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin NV. Among the tasty morsels were Russian Caspian Sea beluga caviar, with blini, toast, eggs and cre`me; rosemary juniper cured Nova Scotia salmon with green peppercorn ai¨oli, smoked tuna on Thai curry and lemon grass sauce; terrine of pork and fine liver; paˆte´ of pheasant and wild mushrooms with Lingonberry preserves; smoked roasted Block Island swordfish and paˆte´ of veal and smoked pork with cranberry relish. This plentiful and delicious reception was going to be a tough act to follow, but our hosts were up to the challenge.

Upon moving into the dining room, we observed a large movie screen and heard the tunes of a live jazz trio, who played throughout the meal. The screen remained a mystery until Bailli Peter Hanowich announced that before each course we would take a behind the scenes peek, via the camera, at the chefs preparing that particular course. This unique idea allowed all of us to be in-kitchen guests of Chef Sanzotti and his crew. For many, this was their first glimpse of the symphony of teamwork and coordination required to produce a Chaine dinner. Maestro Sanzotti conducted to perfection, holding each final dish for the camera's inspection with a flourish and a wish of "bon appetit"! In addition to the video, guests received a menu with a color picture of each course including a detailed description of the presentation and garnishes. This dinner would remain vividly in print as well as in our minds!

The first course was North Atlantic eastern halibut and seared duck liver with black trumpets and Saffron Broth which was served with an Acacia Chardonnay "Reserve" 1994 Carneros. Our next course was a consomme´ of roast langoustinos with grilled polenta dumpling and tosaka, served with an Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva Palo Cortado "Peninsula". The sherry was a daring choice so early in the meal, but the nutty flavor was a classical match for this course. Next was a wood smoked and maple cured breast of Wisconsin duckling and black currant coulis and parsnips, with a La Crema Pinot Noir "Reserve" 1995 from the Sonoma Coast. The unusual amaranth, sweet corn and pink peppercorn tian and summer truffle vinaigrette salad was a wonderfully different course of greens and grains. The piece de resistance was hickory roasted Westmoreland County lamb loin with baby spinach savarin, four grain risotto and a Merlot and foie gras reduction. Rich and flavorful, this course was the perfect culmination of the meal, especially since it was paired with a spectacular, and hard to find, 1982 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon "Private Reserve" from the Napa Valley. The subtle dessert, not sugary sweet and combining many textures and flavors, was a che`vre cheesecake flan with port poached pears gratine´ and pistachio brittle. It was classy and unique - a fine summary of the dinner itself.

With both our gustatory and visual senses sated, the Pittsburgh Chaine members and their guests were wont for the evening to end and many stayed after dessert and coffee for a dance or two.